The Quest for the Holy Grain - Best Brew Pubs
North Rhine - Westphalia , Germany

 

 

Bonn

Cologne

Dusseldorf

 

The city of Cologne, (or Köln, auf Deutsch) is a premier city for brewing and drinking beer.
The traditional beer of Cologne is Kölsch.
According to the " Kölsch Convention" of 1985, a beer may not be called "Kölsch" unless it meets certain criteria.
It must be:

  • brewed in the Cologne metropolitan area
  • pale in colour
  • top-fermented
  • hop-accented
  • filtered
  • 'vollbier': 11 - 14 degrees Plato

The Stange...
the traditional beer glass for drinking Kölsch.

The glass is usually one of your smaller beer glasses, at .2 liters; but they can be larger, as seen above.

 

Brauerei zur Malzmuhle
Heumarkt 6,
50667 Köln (Altstadt)
Tel. (0221) 210 117

The Brauerei zur Malzmuhle is located just beyond the market area of Koln.  It is a restuarant with one large room and another adjacent room used when its busier.  There is no bar area.  The brewing operation is not apparent.  One sits a table and waits for the waiter to notice, then he will bring a menu.  The food seemed pricey, but the portions were large.  They have one beer, Kolsch, which come in a 7 ounce pour.



 

Peters Brauhaus
Mühlengasse 1
50667 Köln, Germany
+49 221 2573950

Peters Brauhaus is located close to the busy tourist area around the Cathedral in Köln.  It's a large restaurant with many rooms and alcoves.  There is no bar area.  The brewing operation is not apparent.  One sits at a table and waits for the waiter to notice; then he will bring a menu.  The food seemed pricey, but the portions were large.  They have one beer, Kölsch, which comes in a 7-ounce pour.

 

Gildenhaus
Große Budengasse 10
50667 Cologne, Germany
0221 2575966

Gildenhaus is a brewpub just off the beaten path between the shopping district and the drinking district, and is an outlet for the Gilden brewery. It would remind one of an English tavern in that it has dark paneling, a full service bar, some tables around the edge of the bar area, and several tall tables with stools that allow one to stand or sit with his beer. The dining room is in the rear, traditional German Bier Halle decor: 8 large picnic-style tables. They serve one beer, Gilden Kölsch. Several regulars were reading the paper while sipping their beer.

 

Pfaffen Hausbrauerei
Heumarkt 62
Cologne, Germany
50667
phone: 0049 221 2577765

Pfaffen is a brewpub on the Old Market square, and an outlet for the Pfaffen brewery. Narrow as a row house, there are tables crammed along both sides, front to rear, a standing area front patio and a large bier garten in the rear. There is a small standing area with several tall tables in the center, convenient to the wait staff. The walls are adorned with carved wooden panels, painted tiles, or plaster relief, all depicting brewery scenes, as do the stained glass windows, front and rear. The barman keeps several glasses half full in anticipation of a quick top off and near immediate service. They have their own kolsch on tap as well as their own bottled Hefe Weizen. The food must be good as many people were enjoying a rather late lunch and the friendly ambiance.

 

 

Brauhaus Schreckenskammer
Ursulagartenstr. 11-15
50668 Köln
Telefon: 0221 - 132581

Schreckenskammer is a neighborhood brewpub far from the tourist area, directly opposite St. Ursula's Church. Upon entering, one passes through the standing area at the bar. The adjacent dining area has two long rows of tables as well as a back room for overflow. There is a small patio in the front and a bier garten in the rear. Schreckenskammer provides a smoker's area with a separate entrance. The beer is made in the next building. They serve their one beer, a kölsch.
Schreckenskammer's website provides, among other things, a Wörterbuch (dictionary) of beer-drinking terms peculiar to Köln.

 

Päffgen Brauhaus
Friesenstrasse 64
Cologne 50670
0221 135-461

The Päffgen Bierhaus, an outlet for the Päffgen Brewery, is in the midst of the busy drinking district of Cologne. One proceeds into the building's entry hall, then into a small bar area with several tables. To get to the modest bar area one would squeeze past the tiny bar. There is also a rear patio overlooking the Rhine. Their one beer, of course, is Päffgen Kölsch.
The beer is served to you in a .2 L cylindrical glass called a Stange, by arrogant young men known as Köbes...who will bring you another one without asking.
The Brauhaus has been here since 1883, but was closed from 1945 - 1949 due to bombing.

 

 

Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch
Salzgasse 13 , 50667
Cologne, Germany
0221 / 257 78 59

On the same street in Cologne's drinking district as several other Brew Pubs is Brauhaus Sünner, an outlet for the Sünner brewery. One passes a tiny patio area in front to enter directly into the dining area. A few steps in, one has the option to make a right turn into the small bar room that seats perhaps 8 on a "U" shaped bench. As well as a Kölsch , they serve their own bottled Hefe Weizen. The rest rooms are upstairs, as well as another dining area.
The barmaid was eager to practice her English; the owner was outside trying to drum up business.

 

 

Heller's Brauhaus
Roonstr. 33
50674 Köln
Tel. (02 21) 24 25 45

Heller's Brauhaus is a brewpub in a residential neighborhood of Cologne.
It is similar to an American bar in that just inside the door is a long bar surrounded by stools with some tables on the perimeter.
A dining area is in the rear as well as another back room. A doorway in the bar area leads to the adjacent store front which is also a dining area and leads to a large enclosed Bier Garten...or "Wintergarten."
The brewing operation is even further back. Heller's havs three of their own beers on draft, a Kölsch
, an unfiltered Kölsch (thus, not a Kölsch...possibly a Keller Bier ) and a Hefe Weizen.
They also serve two of their bottled beers, a Pilsner, and a seasonal.
The menu is typical of the area and appropriately priced.

 

Gasthaus-Brauerei Braustelle
Christianstr. 2 | 50825 Köln
U-Bahnhof Leyendeckerstrasse Tel.: 0221 285 69 32


Braustelle is a brewpub in a bustling neighborhood several miles from downtown Cologne.
The door is on the corner of the building, and the modest bar, several steps inside, runs diagonally across the room and seats perhaps 12. The rest of the space is taken up by about 15 variously-sized tables.
The brewing equipment is in the back of one side and mostly in the basement.
One might think that a pub, self- proclaimed as "Cologne's Smallest Brewery", might have one beer, maybe even a good one.
But Braustelle has 4 of their own beers on tap, as well as 5 bottled beers of their own to offer. Like an American brewpub they experiment with styles, offering among others a German Porter, a Doppell, Trippel, and a beer that tasted like an English barley wine.
Early on a Saturday evening, the place was quite busy with people eating, drinking, and enjoying themselves.
They also boast Cologne's Smallest Website.

 

 

Gaffel am Dom
Trankgasse” or “Bahnhofsvorplatz 1
50667 Cologne
Tel. +49 (0)221 - 9 13 92 60

This Questor was walking down the street from his hotel to wander around the busy part of the neighborhood. Wait !! I recognize that smell !! It's a brewery !! There it is...a block from my hotel. Since I already counted this beer, I didn't look it up or map it out. The Gaffel Pub is the oulet for the brewery which is in the next block. Three store fronts wide and half a block deep the place is huge, with bier hall seating. There is also an upstairs and a downstairs. They must seat several thousand. But the night this Questor was there, there was only one other customer in the large, American-style bar. They have a schnapps, but Gaffel Kölsch is the only beer they serve.

 

Brauerei Schumacher
Oststrasse 123
Dusseldorf, 40210,Germany
Phone: 0211 / 32 60 04

Brauerei Schumacher is a typical German restaurant located in the hotel district near the rail station.  There is a large dining area and a small bar area.  The brewing operation is in an adjacent building.  The bar area has a few seats but mostly tall pub tables against which patrons can lean.  When you find a place in the bar area, the barman will be there with a beer.  If you aren't there for beer, you don't belong there. When your beer is empty, another one appears, until you tell him "Nein, danke ". They have one beer, Alt, which comes in an 8-ounce pour.
I was in Schumacher's Ash Wednesday evening.  I noticed that the dining area was closed off.  That was because at 6:30, mass was to be said in the dining area.  The bar got packed; people were pounding down their beers, preparing for mass.
Gimme that old time religion!

 

Brauerei im Füchschen
Ratinger Str. 28
40213 Düsseldorf, Germany
+49 211 137470

The Brauerei im Füchschen (the Little Fox) is a typical German restaurant in a high-end neighborhood (near the Art Gallery and museums) of Dusseldorf.   There is a large dining area and a small bar area.  The brewing operation is not evident.  The bar area has no seats but tall pub tables for leaning.  When you find a place in the bar area, the barman will be there with a beer.  If you are there, then you are there to drink.  When your beer is empty, another one appears, until you tell him "Nein!".  The barman won't be offended, he'll just give the beer to the next guy.  They have one beer, Alt, and it arrives as an 8-ouncer.

 

Hausbrauerei Zum Schlüssel
Bolkerstr. 41 -47
40213 Düsseldorf, Germany
+49 211 8289550

The Hausbraueri zum Schlüssel (The Keys) is a typical German restaurant in the touristy market area (Old Town) of Düsseldorf.   There are several large dining areas and a small bar area.  The brewing operation is in the rear of the restaurant.  The bar area has no seats but tall pub tables that you can lean on.  When you find a place in the bar area, the barman will be there with a beer.  If you are there in the first place then that means you want a beer...why else would one be there? When your beer is empty, another one appears, until you give the barman the "no" sign. The beer won't go to waste; if you don't want it, the next guy will. They have one beer, Alt, which comes in an 8-ounce glass as shown.


 

Brauerei Uerige GmbH
Berger Str. 1
40213 Düsseldorf, Germany
+49 211 86699-0

The Uerige is an ancient German restaurant in the touristy market area (Old Town) of Düsseldorf. There are several large dining areas and a small bar area.  The brewing operation is inaccessible from the rear of the restaurant.  The front door enters to a hallway; the first room is a bar area with tables and chairs.   They have one beer on draft, Alt, which comes in an 8 ounce glass, as well as their own bottled Hefe Weizen.  There are several other bar areas in this large building, each area with its own different clientele. If the weather is nice, patrons can stand outside the Uerige on Berger Straße, or sit on the Forum across the road. Some argue that Uerige is the oldest pub in Düsseldorf, but this would be difficult to prove.

 

Brauhaus Bönnsch
Sterntorbrücke 4
53111 Bonn
+49 (0) 228 – 65 06 10

Bönnsch is a brewpub in the busy shopping district of Bonn. About 20 large picnic-style tables adorn the front patio. An American-style bar is just inside; the large bar has stools all around and several small tables. The regular dining area is further back and has nooks and alcoves for a cozy feeling. The brewing operation is on display in the rear. They feature an extensive menu and have two of their beers on tap.