The Quest for the Holy Grain - Best Brew Pubs
Saxony, Germany

 

 

 

Ratskeller Leipzig
Lotterstraße 1
04109 Leipzig, Germany
+49 341 1234567

 

Ratskeller Leipzig is a large restaurant that makes it's own beer…therefore…a brewpub.
At the far end of the tourist district, Ratskeller is in the basement of the quite old, very large, and definitely stone City Hall.
The main dining room probably seats 200 guests, with other rooms and alcoves.  
The large service bar seats 4, and, as an afterthought, there are 4 small tables near the bar.  
Ratskeller makes the 3 traditional German beers: Helles, Dunkel, and Hefeweizen.

The brewing operation is not evident.

 

 

 

 

Bayerische Bahnhof
Bayrischer Platz 1
04103 Leipzig, Deutschland
+49 341 1245760

Plagued by construction on three sides of their building,
Bayerische Bahnhof brewery, near downtown Leipzig, is daunting to get to.
Set in the old Bavarian train station, once the gateway to Bavaria, the brewery is a classic German restaurant with a full service bar, wine list, and a more formal dining room.
There is some informal dining in the bar as well as an enclosed (to keep the construction dust out) patio.
The brewing operation is at the end of the bar area.
Bayerische Bahnhof has the three common German beers, known as Schaffner, Kuppler, and Heizer.
They also serve their world famous Gose, a speciality of Leipzig.

All this on the site is the oldest preserved railhead station in the world!

 

 

Brauhaus an der Thomaskirche
Thomaskirchhof 3
04109 Leipzig, Germany
+49 341 2126110

The Brauhaus an der Thomaskirche in downtown Leipzig seems somewhat commercial.
Maybe it's because they have everything going for them.
Thomaskirche is adjacent to a major tourist attraction, and only a few blocks from the University.
Their large patio is adjacent to a city park so there is green grass and trees.
This Questor was the only indoor customer...perhaps hundreds were on the patio.
A few of those patrons were eating, but all were drinking.
They serve the three standard beers, made somewhere in the back.

 

 

Brauhaus Napoleon
Prager Straße 233
04289 Leipzig, Deutschland
+49 341 2467676

It's never too early to drink beer. But at 10:30 AM most places are still closed.
Same with Brauhaus Napoleon on the outskirts of Liepzig.
But not tightly closed.
The employees are happy to stop mopping the floor to pour a thirsty Questor a beer.
And the brewer is in there brewing. Napoleon has a helles, dunkel, and hefe; all are good. And a full service menu for the appropriate time.
The decor in bars in Sachsen is much like that of Bavaria. Maybe not Hunting Lodge, but certainly dark woods and big tables.
Lots of outside seating, a covered patio, and a pavilion.
The streetcar stops at the front door.

I liked the place so much I went back for dinner. I had wonderful sauer braten (Kleine portion- E8.72.).
The brewer was still there brewing so I felt compelled to talk to him. His English was worse than my Deutsch, however, so it was a short talk.

 

 

 

Neustädter Hausbrauerei Schwingenheuer
Schönbrunnstraße 1  
01097 Dresden, Germany
0351 7993774

My directions led me to the "storefront" in the top photo on the right, supposedly the
Neustädter Hausbrauerei.
The sign on the door said that the brewpub hours are from 3:00 to 11:00.
Since it was quarter to 4, I reluctantly went through the door.
To the left there was a door locked up tight.
Further ahead to the right a dark staircase leading up to apartments, and beyond, more doors.
The door on the right lead to trash facilities, and the one on the left lead into a large kitchen, where there may have been beer brewing .
Outside, peeking in the windows, I had another view of this kitchen.
No humans were seen.

Zum Bautzner Tor
Hoyerswerdaer Straße 37  
01099 Dresden, Germany
0351 803-8202

My second stop led me to Zum Bautzner Tor, which was supposed to be an outlet for a small brewery.
It too was closed up tight.
I went to Watzke nearby (write-up below), ate and drank, and moved on.
I then traveled to what was supposed to be a beer bar, but was actually 4 unlabeled taps in the lobby of a youth hostel!
I said, auf wiedersehen.
By now, I was only a block or two from Zum Bautzner Tor again, so I went by...it was now open!
They do serve a pilsner from the tied brewery (middle photo) which may also be a venue that teaches one how to brew.
The place was dark and dingy...the only light came from the open front door. The only other customers were two kids playing pool in the back.
I pounded down my beer and left.


If the reader is confused by this article, you know how I felt.

 

Watzke Brauereiausschank
am Goldenen Reiter

Hauptstraße 1
01097 Dresden
Telefon: 03 51 - 81 06 820

Another Watzke brewpub, Watzke Brauereiausschank am Goldenen Reiter, is actually a brewery outlet, at the foot of the busy shopping area in New Town Dresden.
The exterior of the facility is particularly modern, but the very large, single room interior is furnished just like the other outlets.
They have the same menu and serve the same beers...Helles, Dunkel, and Hefeweizen.
Both Watzke outlets have a very sophisticated growler-filler.
The two Watzke outlets are supplied with beer from the Watzke Ball- & Brauhaus also located in Dresden.
Watzke brewed the first unfiltered beer in Dresden.

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Watzke Brauereiausschank am Ring
Dr.-Külz-Ring 9
01067 Dresden
Telefon: 03 51 - 205 243 81

The Watzke Brewery has three outlets in Dresden, each one calling itself a brewpub.
Watzke Brauereiausschank am Ring is in a busy section of Old Town and looks like a traditional German drinking establishment with a large patio in front.
Entering the front door, one is surprised that there are only a few tables and stools before coming to a short set of stairs leading to the service bar and back to the kitchen.
There is another flight of stairs leading to the upper seating area.
The visitor finds traditional German Brew Pub decor, with brewery pictures and souveniers.
Behind the bar is a display of empty growlers and a growler-filling machine.
Watzke serves the usual three beers (Helles, Dunkel, and Hefeweizen) as well as a Zwickel and a seasonal...in this case a Weizenbock, and all quite tasty.
Watzke offers an extensive food menu, and most people seemed to be there for the food.

 

Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen
Am Brauhaus 8 b
01099 Dresden , Germany
0351 / 652 39 00

The Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen is high on a hill overlooking the Elbe River and Old Town Dresden, and has it's own tram and bus stops.
Many steps lead up to the front patio Biergarten. Typically arrayed with large tables shaded by umbrellas, today's food specials are served cafeteria style.
The first station is for beer, then pick up a tray and wait your turn.
Or, one can order from a waitress off the regular menu.
Better yet, one can go indoors.
The door enters the center of a very large room. To the left are tables and booths, at the right, a very long bar and more tables and booths.
The working brewery is behind the bar.
The whole room smells of beer being brewed..

Waldschlösschen serves their own draft Helles and Dunkel, as well as some guest bottles.
Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen
is a very pleasant place in which to have a beer and maybe some food.


 

Zum Gerücht
Altlaubegast 5
01279 Dresden , Germany
0351 / 251 34 25

 

Zum Gerücht is a brewpub in the Dresden suburb of Leubener.
On entering, one is surprised by the size of the place. It's like entering the side of an American rowhouse; it's wide but only a few feet deep. One enters into a sitting area with 4 or 5 tables. Beyond, to the left, is a service bar, then another sitting area with 4 more tables.
Following are the rest rooms and a door to a walled in patio the size of a generous one car garage.
It's all dimly lit and actually quite cozy.
Two of
Zum Gerücht's own brews are offered on tap...a helles and a dunkel
Both were quite tasty, and there were several guest taps and bottles. The kitchen and brewery are in an attached building.
The limited menu is inexpensive and the food looked quite good.

 

Feldschlößchen-Stammhaus GmbH Budapester Strasse 32
01069 Dresden
Tel: 0351 - 471 88 55

Feldschlößchen-Stammhaus is in an imposing building about a mile from Old Town Dresden. This was once the actual brewery. No beer is now brewed here and this is the outlet for the brewery.

The main door enters a foyer that has a diagram of the building.
Upstairs leads to the beer museum, which covers three floors, and function rooms; to the left one finds a large and informal bar, rusticly paneled, not in use on the day of our visit.
A right turn will lead the guest to a large American- style bar room with a large "U" shaped bar and tables around.
The room is decorated in brewery motif.
An old brewing control panel is displayed on one wall; the canopy over the bar is the top of a large brewing kettle.


At the time of my visit, Feldschl
össen had 3 beers on tap. I put away a Zwickel and a Schwarzbier. There was also a Helles.
Although their website discusses their food, no menu was visible, and none was offered.